THE EFFECTS OF DRAFT AND DOBBY ARRANGEMENTS ON WEAVING DESIGN

Abstract

Author(s): Fatma Nur BA?ARAN ?eng羹l AKAM

Woven fabrics have become a design product shaped by the combination of technical and aesthetic elements
with the development of modern design today. Conventional fabrics can reach special appearances with some physical
and visual factors such as yarn, texture, and color, etc. Derivative textures obtained by basic weaving weaves or combining these weaves in various ways are the main applications open to creativity in design studies. Weaving draft (drafting) and dobby (lifting/pegging) plans, on the other hand, affect the unit report sizes of basic and derivative weaves, provide symmetrical repetitions of the motif, and lead to pattern effects that are nested, formed as wavy or diagonal parallel and reproducible. The achievement of the weaving design to the targeted result depends on the warp threads being passed through the heald eyes according to the weaving drafting plan. The formation of weaving requires a lifting plan which is necessary for the throwing of the weft yarn. Since serial production comes into question in the industrial environment, it makes it impossible to change the plan layout on the counter for each new batch. However, weaving designs reach different dimensions with the changes made in the weaving draft and dobby plans, and with the cooperation of these two plans, wider compositions and different surface properties are obtained. Therefore, such applications, which are thought to be evaluated in special productions also gain importance in textile design education. This study, which was carried out to examine the effects of weaving draft and pegging arrangements on weaving design, were examined technical and esthetic design terms and new appearances to be reached by unit reports were determined with the theme of ‘’TRANSFORMATION’’. The two derived and one simple weave report, a combined draft plan prepared in pointed, patterned pointed, wavy and group order was applied, and this order was also followed in weft arrangements. In this way, weaving draft arrangements, which are selected and brought together in different features, reach new motif effects in the sections where the dobby intersects with its own report; the motifs seen at other intersections were found to be repeated horizontally or vertically on the surface.

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